(Nairobi) – Kenya’s second-hand clothing industry, commonly known as mitumba, is not harming the country’s local manufacturing sector, especially in apparel, according to a newly released report. Instead, the study argues, the industry complements domestic textile production while playing a vital economic and social role.
The report, titled A Future Look at the Apparel and Footwear Industry in Kenya (2022–2037), was released by the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya (MCAK) in partnership with the Institute of Economic Affairs (IEA). It shows that the mitumba trade supports over two million jobs across the country and contributes approximately KES 12 billion (USD 91 million) to government tax revenues annually.
Beyond employment and tax revenue, the mitumba industry provides affordable clothing to more than 20 million Kenyans, cutting across various income levels. The report also highlights a potential future where Kenya becomes a hub for sorting and processing second-hand clothes for re-export, creating more jobs and increasing national revenue.
MCAK Chairperson Teresia Njenga emphasized the broader significance of the mitumba trade, calling it more than just a source of affordable clothing. “It supports millions of Kenyans, especially women and youth, while contributing significantly to government revenue and environmental sustainability,” Njenga said during the launch event in Nairobi.
Kwame Owino, CEO of the IEA-Kenya, dismissed claims that the mitumba trade is responsible for the underperformance of local textile manufacturing. “It is not true that the availability of used clothes is the cause for failures in domestic textile companies,” Owino stated.
Their comments come amid ongoing debates about the impact of mitumba on Kenya’s manufacturing ambitions. Industry stakeholders gathered on Thursday in Nairobi to discuss the findings, which challenge the notion that second-hand imports undermine domestic production.
The report seeks to reassure policymakers and industry players that the second-hand clothing trade does not compete directly with Kenyan-manufactured apparel. Instead, it argues that the two supply different market segments and that mitumba can play a supportive role in the country’s wider industrialisation agenda.
According to the report, “The clothing and footwear supplied by the mitumba industry are not substitutes for apparel manufactured in Kenya. The two sectors complement each other in important ways.”
It further asserts that mitumba supports key national development goals, stating that “mitumba trade is compatible with domestic manufacturing and industrialisation, and therefore is not a hindrance to achieving the goals of Kenya Vision 2030 or the African Union’s Agenda 2063.”
The report also highlights how the second-hand clothing sector contributes to sustainable development by offering dignified employment, especially to youth and women, and freeing up household income by providing low-cost clothing options.
The MCAK is now calling for policy reforms to support the coexistence of mitumba and local textile manufacturing. The group proposes regulatory strategies that promote synergy rather than competition between the two sectors. It argues that this approach can lead to job creation, inclusive growth, and market diversification.
“Encouraging coexistence can help create a balanced and sustainable ecosystem within Kenya’s apparel and footwear industry, fostering job creation, sustainable economic growth, and market diversification,” the report concludes.
However, not all industry voices agree. Earlier this year, the Kenya Association of Manufacturers (KAM) raised alarms over the expanding mitumba trade. The association warned that the continued growth of the second-hand clothing market could threaten Kenya’s competitive position in the African Continental Free Trade Area (AfCFTA).
KAM CEO Tobias Alando cautioned that the local textile industry could lose significant export opportunities if second-hand clothing continues to dominate the domestic market. “The AfCFTA offers great prospects for Kenya’s textile industry to grow and compete across Africa,” Alando said. “However, this growth could be stunted if the local market continues to be flooded with cheap second-hand imports.”
Despite these concerns, the new report suggests that the mitumba sector is not an obstacle to growth but a valuable part of Kenya’s economic fabric. It calls for cooperation between policymakers, manufacturers, and traders to ensure that both sectors thrive.